How to Do a Feline Flick on a Mature Hooded Eye, According to Helen Mirren’s MUA
How to Do a Feline Flick on a Mature Hooded Eye, According to Helen Mirren’s MUA
The feline flick—that sharp, confident wing—is the ultimate symbol of timeless glamour. But for those of us navigating the technical difficulties of mature, hooded eyes, achieving that perfect lift without smudging or drooping can feel like mission impossible. We’ve all tried the standard technique only to watch the beautiful wing vanish when we open our eyes.
Luckily, the secret to ageless, lifted liner doesn’t require surgery. It requires technique. We’ve managed to decode the exact method used by Helen Mirren’s trusted professional makeup artist (MUA) to ensure her iconic red carpet looks are sharp, defined, and defy gravity.
This trending technique, often referred to as the "floating flick" or "batwing liner," is the game-changer for anyone struggling with skin texture or the natural anatomy of a hooded lid. Prepare to revolutionize your approach to achieving the perfect cat eye.
Addressing the Mature Hooded Eye Dilemma
Before diving into the MUA secret, we must understand the challenge. A hooded eye means that skin from the brow bone folds over the mobile eyelid, often obscuring the crease. As we mature, this hood can become more pronounced, sometimes accompanied by crepey skin and fine lines around the outer corners.
The conventional eyeliner technique requires drawing a line that follows the lower lash line and extends upwards. When applied to a hooded eye, this line breaks, folds, or dips dramatically when the eye is opened, creating a heavy or droopy effect. The goal of the MUA technique is to bypass this fold entirely, creating an optical illusion of lifted skin.
The key to success is preparation. Mature eyelids benefit significantly from smoothing and setting products. This ensures the precise application doesn't feather or smudge throughout the day.
- Primer is Mandatory: Always use a dedicated eyelid primer to smooth the skin and lock the eyeliner in place.
- Choose Your Weapon Wisely: Avoid highly liquid liners that bleed easily. Opt for a highly pigmented, waterproof gel liner in a pot, applied with an angled brush, or a precise felt-tip pen.
- Keep Skin Relaxed: Do not pull or stretch the eye area. Work on the skin in its most natural, relaxed state—eyes looking straight ahead into the mirror.
The 'Floating Flick' Technique: MUA Secrets Revealed
This is the definitive step-by-step guide to achieving the lifted feline flick favored by the experts working with silver screen legends. The difference lies in where you start and how you connect the line.
Step 1: The Straight-On Stare (The Crucial Step)
Sit or stand directly in front of a mirror with your head straight and your gaze forward. Your eye must be open and relaxed. This is vital. Drawing the wing with your eye closed ensures the wing will look distorted when you open it.
Step 2: Mapping the Exit Point (The Angle)
Visualize the angle of the lift. For a sophisticated, age-appropriate look, the angle should follow the trajectory of your lower lash line, lifting towards the tail of your brow. Place a tiny dot where you want the tip of your wing to end—usually just past the outer corner of the eye, aiming upward.
Step 3: Creating the First Line (The Float)
Starting from the outer dot you just placed, draw a short, straight line inward, pointing towards the middle of your eyeball. Crucially, this line should skip over the hood. You are not drawing this line along your lash line; you are drawing it slightly above the fold of your hooded lid.
When you look straight ahead, this short floating line should be perfectly visible and look like a sharp, lifted wing. When you close your eye, you will notice a strange gap—the "negative space"—between this line and your actual lash line.
Step 4: Connecting the Dots (The Bridge)
Now, you need to connect the floating line back down to your lash line, but only at the very outer edge. Starting about two-thirds of the way across your upper lash line (near the iris), draw a thin line that meets the inner corner of your floating flick line. This creates a small triangle or V-shape at the outer corner.
Ensure the liner along the lash line remains thin. Heavy liner on a mature lid can look aging and weigh down the eyes. Keep the thickness concentrated only in the outer V-shape.
Step 5: Filling and Refinement
Carefully fill in the V-shape triangle you just created. Look straight ahead one more time to check the result. If done correctly, the floating flick should look seamless and sharp, creating an unparalleled lifting effect.
Ensuring Longevity and Achieving the Lifting Effect
The MUA strategy extends beyond just application; it involves strategic product pairing and setting to ensure the sophisticated look lasts all day, resisting fine lines and movement.
The Power of Tightlining
To give the appearance of incredibly full lashes and intensify the feline flick without adding bulk, MUA professionals always recommend tightlining. Using a waterproof pencil, carefully line the upper waterline (the area underneath the lashes). This instantly darkens the entire eye frame and makes the space between the lashes and the wing look denser.
Smudge-Proof Formulas
The natural oils produced by the skin, combined with the warmth of the eyelid, can quickly break down standard eyeliner. To prevent the disastrous transfer or "stamp" often seen with hooded eyes, layer your product.
- Apply the gel or liquid liner (Step 1-5).
- Use a black eyeshadow applied with a small, stiff angled brush and lightly tap it over the wing area. This sets the liner and reduces feathering.
- For extra security, a localized setting spray applied carefully with a cotton bud over the outer corner can lock the pigment in place.
Troubleshooting and Mature Skin Considerations
Even with expert guidance, applying the floating flick can take practice. Here are critical tips for achieving professional results on skin that may have more movement or texture.
Avoid Thickening the Inner Line
A common mistake is drawing the liner too thick across the entire mobile lid. This eats up space and can make the eye look smaller and heavier. Remember, the true visual lift comes from the sharp angle of the floating wing, not the thickness of the base line. Keep the inner two-thirds of the lash line minimal.
Symmetry Issues
Achieving symmetry is often the hardest part. If one side looks slightly lower than the other, use a tiny amount of micellar water or makeup remover applied to a flat, angled brush. Use this sharp edge to "chisel" the underside of the wing, instantly refining the shape and achieving razor sharpness.
Working with Crepey Skin
If the eyeliner skips or drags over fine lines, try using a slightly creamier gel pot formula rather than a rigid pen. For maximum control, use the "dot and connect" method: place tiny dots along your desired line and connect them gently rather than trying to draw one continuous sweep.
By adopting the strategic angle and ‘floating’ technique used by Helen Mirren’s MUA, the perfect feline flick is no longer reserved for those with taut skin or large lid space. This method leverages negative space and optical illusion to deliver a sharp, sophisticated, and undeniably lifting effect that truly defines ageless beauty.
How to do a feline flick on a mature hooded eye, according to Helen Mirren’s MUA
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